The Pantalones
May 24, 2013

The Proper Cloth 2013 American Trader Collection

A modern take on the conservative classics of Wall Street from the guys over at Proper Cloth. This ready to wear collection looks fantastic, and it is a nice addition to the made to measure options regularly offered at Proper Cloth.

(Source: esquire.com)

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(Notes: 55)
  
Filed under: Menswear Proper Cloth American Trader Shirts New York City 
March 1, 2013
Product Review: Neronote, Canclini Poplin Made To Measure Shirt

I had been talking to a marketing representative from Neronote around the holiday season, and she offered to send me a made to measure shirt to review. Before doing some research, I had never heard of Neronote. If you have explored the world of online MTM shirting, you know that there are numerous options all claiming to produce a superior product in terms of price and quality. You never really know how your shirt will turn out until you receive it. Honestly, it’s a bit of a risk. 

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That being said, Neronote looked like they made beautiful shirts. The styles looked on point, and they are made in Italy. Neronote offers about 2,000 fabrics, a variety of high quality fabrics from mills like Thomas Mason, Monti, Albini, and Canclini. I’ve been wanting a brown striped shirt, so I went with a brown striped cotton poplin from Canclini. The design process was straight forward and easy to understand, as online MTM should be. Fast forward four weeks and a package from Neronote arrives on my doorstep. Inside was, quite honestly, one of the most beautiful shirts that I own, and the best online MTM shirt in my closet.

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There were an impressive amount of collars from which to choose, including a few variations on the spread (my personal go to). I went with the Neronote standard spread collar, and was very much pleased with it. It sits nicely under the lapels of a buttoned blazer, and is not so drastically spread as to be confused with a cut-away collar. It compliments a four-in-hand knot very nicely, and looks great unbuttoned too. 

The softness of the fabric makes this collar very comfortable, but Neronote also allows for the choice of “soft”, “normal”, and “stiff” collar options, all with the choice of removable collar stays. I never wear collar stays, so I chose the soft option with removable stays. Another nice addition is the ability to choose the placement of the stitching from the edge of the collar. 

More after the jump. 

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(Source: mypantalones)

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Filed under: Menswear Product Review Articles Neronote Italy Shirts Made to Measure MTM 
February 26, 2013
Finamore.

Finamore.

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Filed under: Menswear Finamore Shirts 
February 14, 2013
The cuff/buttons/fabric of my new MTM flannel from Modern Tailor.

The cuff/buttons/fabric of my new MTM flannel from Modern Tailor.

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Filed under: Menswear Modern Tailor Shirts 
February 12, 2013
Product Review: Modern Tailor Made To Measure Flannel Shirt

If you’ve investigated or asked about any of the online made to measure shirting brands, it is pretty likely that Modern Tailor has come up at some point. Modern Tailor’s “trial shirt” deal offers a MTM shirt in white or blue for $30 shipped, and it is essentially a broke college student’s best friend. I have ordered the trial shirt (twice), and I still wear them quite often. However, I decided to try a shirt of a more substantial fabric when Modern Tailor asked me for a review. 

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One of Modern Tailor’s best qualities is the sheer number of fabrics that you vcan choose from. The selection is impressive to say the least. I wanted a shirt that would keep me warm in the coming months, and I was looking for something soft to the touch. I ended up selecting a black watch-esque flannel fabric with a killer grey windowpane layered on top. I wasn’t sure what the weight of the flannel would be like, but upon arrival, it was a very fine flannel. It’s awesome. I can easily wear this fabric into spring without sweating as one would in a heavy flannel.

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I went with Modern Tailor’s cut away collar, as I tend to prefer for shirts that I will be wearing primarily sans tie. I am extremely impressed with this collar. I chose the extra-soft collar option, as well as no collar stays, and I have to say that this is one of the most comfortable collars I have. The spread isn’t insanely wide, and it fits well. 

More after the jump.

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(Source: mypantalones)

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Filed under: Menswear Modern Tailor Product Reviews Articles Shirts 
January 31, 2013

Emanuel Berg bespoke shirting details.

(Source: therakeonline.com)

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Filed under: Menswear Emmanuel Berg Shirts Bespoke 
December 12, 2012

I’ve got a bunch of made to measure shirts coming my way over the next month. I’m pretty excited to receive these. I’ll be getting a brown striped broadcloth, blue/green/gray check flannel, white/blue pencil stripe broadcloth, white oxford, black watch broadcloth, and a navy gingham broadcloth (not pictured), all with spread or cut away collars.

Stay tuned for a lot of shirt reviews.

(Source: mypantalones)

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Filed under: Menswear Shirts Mine 
December 5, 2012

Flannel Spread Collar.

Great check.

(Source: mens-ex.jp)

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Filed under: Menswear Flannel Shirts Dressterior 
November 30, 2012
Product Review: Hucklebury Slim-Fit Green Stripe Shirt

Over the past couple weeks, I’ve been lucky enough to be able to chat with the founders of Hucklebury, Parag and Dhawal, about their brand of ready to wear shirts. Hucklebury offers a variety of classic patterned shirts in two cuts, a slim and regular, made from Egyptian cotton. Parag sent me a shirt, so I could get a chance to inspect the offerings a bit more closely. If you read this blog frequently, you’ll know I’m partial (read obsessed with) emerald green, so I grabbed their slim fit with green stripes. Here are my thoughts:

I’m going to start with the fit of the shirt. I got one of the slim fits, tapered in the waist, with smaller arm openings; Hucklebury sizes by neck, so I ordered the 16. I wear a size 40 suit, and the shoulders of the 16 fit me nicely, room to move with no gratuitous amounts of fabric hanging off the shoulder. The waist was tapered and did not puff when tucked, but I have a rather slim torso, so it was not particularly slim on me. Don’t get me wrong, this is a moderately slim shirt, but I would not go as far as to say that this is an extra slim shirt.  If you’re an extra slim guy, I’d stay away from Hucklebury. Overall, the silhouette follows the natural lines of the body, but leaves some room for breathing.

Hucklebury has two collar styles, and each style is exclusive to a fit. The regular fit has a spread collar, and the slim fit has a button down. The button-down collar is beautiful, with a healthy thickness. It has a very slight roll, giving it the ability to be worn closed and open with the same appeal. I like to wear my shirts with two buttons undone, and this shirt makes a nice v when I do. Hucklebury’s collars are fused from the outside in, resulting in a softer and livelier collar. 

Like I said earlier, this shirt is made from two ply Egyptian cotton that was woven in Italy. The weight, ideal for an all-season shirt, is mid-range. It has a nice smoothness to it, but it is by no means shiny or slippery. With this shirt in particular, the green is a perfect shade, and it’s almost as versatile as a blue stripe.

The curved cuffs, as is the collar, are fused rom the outside in. They’re nice and soft, and extremely comfortable on the wrist. They close snugly, not tightly, on my wrist (8in), using a one button closure. I personally prefer a sewn curved cuff, so these were right up my alley. The sleeves of this shirt actually fit me very well. They are slim enough, and the 36 length hits my long arms right at the bottom of my hand.

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(Source: mypantalones)

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Filed under: Menswear Hucklebury Shirts Product Reviews Articles 
November 23, 2012

You might not be aware, but Factelier makes really beautiful shirts.

Based and manufactured in Japan, Factelier makes a small collection of high-quality spread and button-down collar shirts. Every aspect of the shirts are top-notch, including sewn collars and cuffs (a personal preference, giving the collar a softer construction). This brand is on the up and up, looking to make moves around the globe in the next few years.

(Source: mypantalones)

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Filed under: Factelier Factelier by Hitoyoshi Japan Menswear Shirts Articles 
November 14, 2012
Braun Hamburg.

Braun Hamburg.

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Filed under: Menswear Braun Hamburg Shirts 
November 8, 2012

Denim and Chambray details from Ring Jacket.

(Source: ringjacket.co.jp)

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Filed under: Menswear Shirts Denim Ring Jacket 
October 25, 2012
The Pantalones Sits Down With Washington D.C.’s Hugh & Crye:

Interview Series No. 4

Chances are you’ve had an off-the-rack shirt that doesn’t fit your body the way you’d like it to. If that’s the case, let me introduce you to Hugh & Crye, a company who focuses on the body type instead of just labeling a shirt S, M, or L. I was lucky enough to get to talk to Hugh and Crye’s Pranav Vora and Philip Soriano. I got to learn a little bit more about the brand, and catch a glimpse of what’s in store for the future. Enjoy:

What are your names and positions at Hugh & Crye?

Pranav Vora - Founder and CEO

Philip Soriano - Director of Customer Experience

Could you tell us what kind of product Hugh & Crye produces?

Phil: We offer our customers better fitting men’s garments. For now, we produce ready-made shirts and have jackets on the way. We’ve also added limited runs of accessories like ties and pocket squares.

Is there a certain kind of guy who would wear Hugh & Crye? 

Pranav: Our customers tend to be well educated, ambitious, humble guys. They appreciate the fit and quality of our shirts, as well as our easy customer service.

I know you guys have an opinion on this issue, so I have to ask; what’s wrong with the accepted standard for shirting among men today?

Phil: Off the rack shirts are made for the masses and, therefore, fit very few men well. Mass shirt makers use sizing systems, like S, M, L or Neck/Sleeve measurements to determine a guy’s size, neither of which tell you anything about the shape of the torso. The result is a shirt where neck and sleeve fit perfectly, but the body is billowy, or a decent fit through the body where the sleeves are too short and the collar is too tight to button – we see it time and time again.

I personally think the dress shirt is something men take for granted. What is the importance of a good dress shirt?

Pranav: Agreed. The dress shirt is a foundational element, that can be worn for nearly all occasions. When a guy wears a dress shirt that actually fits, it adds a bit of confidence, gravitas, and class. 

In my opinion, you guys have revolutionized the way ready to wear shirting is classified. Can you tell me a little bit about the way your shirt sizes are labeled and the origin of this sizing system?

Pranav: After a few sewing classes and a ton of research on shirt making, we measured a bunch of friends and family members who were lean and athletically-built. We quickly saw that you could group guys based on their body types - the shape of their torso. We launched with 6 sizes, thinking that was all we needed. A year later, we had 12. Think of it this way: 3 sizes (Short, Average and Tall), in 4 fits (Skinny, Slim, Athletic and Broad). 12 total. If you’re a lean or athletically built guy - we’ve got you covered in a way that no off-the-rack brand does.

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(Source: mypantalones)

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Filed under: Hugh and Crye Menswear Philip Soriano Pranav Vora Shirts Interviews 
July 18, 2012

Now mine: Hackett London 100% cotton button-up

I got my Hackett button-up in the mail today, and it is absolutely incredible. 

The cotton fabric is perfect, featuring a subtle polka dot. You could call the fabric denim, but it’s so soft and light that I’m not going to. The cut-away collar is beautiful; it lays perfectly. The cuffs are a little different than my preferred cuff, but killer just the same. The construction is also exactly what you would expect from Mr. Hackett.

The details make this shirt though. The last button is stitched with a nice contrasting red thread, giving it a little life that only you know exists. The feature I was most excited by was the little slit shown below the two extra buttons. You know what that is? That slit holds your collar stays if you want to take them out of your collar, or just want to carry an extra pair. Yeah.

This shirt is absolutely luxe, in every sense of the word.

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(Notes: 31)
  
Filed under: Hackett Menswear Mine Shirts Trill Life Articles 
July 12, 2012

Barba Dandylife Linen.

Summer luxe.

(Source: brshop.jp)

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Filed under: Menswear Barba Shirts 
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