The Pantalones
April 19, 2014

Norse Projects Warm Cotton Shirt

Damn. This is really, really good. 

Want/need for cool summer nights. 

(Source: norseprojects.com)

April 3, 2014

Remi Relief Patchwork Denim Shirt

This Japanese company is coming out with some pretty solid stuff. 

April 3, 2014

Glanshirt Linen/Cotton Printed Popover

I don’t know if I could pull this shirt off, despite its general gnarliness. I picked up this same popover in a cream color and 100% linen fabric a while ago, and I will encourage anyone who messes with the floral printed jawnz to snag this immediately. Glanshirt knows what’s up for spring/summer “fuck you” vibes. 

March 13, 2014

Glanshirt Linen/Cotton

February 25, 2014

Cleeve of London for Drake’s

(Source: drakes-london.com)

February 20, 2014

As is tradition, I’ve been getting a lot of questions about popovers lately, and I’m happy to say that one of my favorite shirt makers just introduced a popover line in their already sterling collection of custom shirts.

They’re offering five popovers (three solid and two plaids, as well as the rest of Proper Cloth’s fabric line-up) ready for custom sizing. The details on these are absolutely gnarly, featuring a soft spread collar and soft cuffs.

Given my experience with Proper Cloth in the past, I’m pretty confident in saying that these are probably some of the best popovers on the market. The popovers range from $85 - $135, and if you’re a fan of Italian beach bum style such as myself, you can check them out here.

November 13, 2013
GQ’s Obsession With The Baby Collar and The Value of a Full Spread:

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I have always questioned the logic and taste of stylists working in magazines. It seems as though they feature pieces that major designers push, regardless of appearance or details, and this is especially true when it comes to dress shirts. The main offender in this instance is GQ and its love affair with the baby point collar.

Without fail, Jim Nelson (EIC of GQ, pictured below) appears in every photo sporting a shirt with a tiny collar. I don’t think I’ve ever seen him wear a spread that reaches under the lapels of his jacket. You might say that he wears the collar to appropriate the 1.5” width of his ties, but honestly, that’s another issue. If you’re the Editor in Chief of the world’s biggest menswear magazine, you should look like a man, and your collar should look like a man’s collar.

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So what is technically wrong with a small collar?

There are a few things that a small collar accomplishes, and none of them are positive if you’re more than sixteen years old. Firstly, a baby collar takes years off your image, and that’s not in a good way. A smaller collar gives the impression that the wearer is young, a bit too young to be wearing a suit. The collar also makes your head appear much larger than the proportions of your body dictate, inspiring another characteristic of children.

A small collar also calls for a readjustment in proportion to your entire outfit. Primarily, a small collar needs a smaller tie knot; if you have a small opening between your collar points, a knot measuring more than an inch and a half can leave your neck looking constrained, drawing attention away from your face. Creating a need for a skinny tie is never a good thing, in my opinion, unless you’re headed to a Mad Men party or your pop-punk band’s first show outside of the garage.

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When it comes down to it, the real problem I have with the baby collar is that it doesn’t rest under the lapels of a jacket, open or closed. In my book, if you can see the tips of your collar, you’re doing something wrong (unless we’re talking about a button-down collar). If your collar tips are showing, there are two unnecessary points of focus on your neck. taking away from the fluidity of your kit and highlighting the shirt as an individual piece, as opposed to a functioning part of a whole.

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What it’s really all about is maintaing the image of your kit as an entire kit, not a bunch of singular pieces. When you look at an outfit, you want a sense of solidity and appropriateness in relation. If your shirt is standing out as a singular aspect, due to exposed collar points, that takes away from the seamlessness of your kit. The spread collar above remains nicely under the edges of my lapel, maintaining a fluid flow from tie to shirt, shirt to jacket, jacket to gillet. There is no interruption in that progression.

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I buy my shirts with full spread and cutaway collars; I won’t buy a shirt that I am expecting to wear with a tie unless it will safely stay beneath my lapels when I am sitting, walking, or doing whatever the hell it is that I do. I own a few point collar shirts, but I wear them more casually, without a blazer. You can see, in the pictures above and below, that the tips of my collar are nowhere to be seen. The cutaway contrast and plaid collars and the spread blue striped collar achieve this qualification perfectly.

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Some strict menswear aficionados will say that you should choose your collar solely on how it frames your face; Although that makes sense, I respectfully disagree. When choosing a shirt collar, the length and ability to nest under my blazer is the main priority. That being said, I think the full spread collar is the best option for the average man. If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, Italian, or dramatic, go for a cutaway.

I will say that GQ is starting to do a better job, incorporating appropriate spreads into their editorials and features, and they aren’t the only offender in supporting the baby collar. There are plenty of magazines, blogs, and millions of people who promote and wear collars of underwhelming size. It’s an epidemic of massive proportions and little recognition. My only advice is this: the next time you go to buy a shirt, wear a jacket, respect your neck, and don’t buy a baby collar.

November 4, 2013

I covered Hucklebury almost a year ago and since then, they have been busy bringing their brand to the next level, with some new digs that are looking pretty killer.

Hucklebury makes one product in a very simple manner; the shirts Hucklebury produces are made with extremely high quality 100% Egyptian Cotton, constructed here in the USA. The best part? They cost $78. Made in America shirting for $78 is basically unheard of.

Their pricing, together with their crowdsourcing model, really sets them apart from the competition. Once their Kickstarter is completed, Hucklebury will release new dress shirt designs that customers pre-order. Shirts get produced when a design hits a minimum sales order. Removing this guesswork of demand and supply is one reason why luxury dress shirts that normally retail at a much higher price point.

Hucklebury has two fits (slim and regular), in a multitude of designs from ginghams to stripes to checks. They have also removed guesswork from their sizing – using Styku FIT technology that gives your best-fit size within 10 seconds. An added bonus, which I’ve never seen in dress shirts, is a 365 day guarantee in quality and construction.

Hucklebury’s model seems to address all the challenges guys like me could have for purchasing online, a process that can be tricky for some. As of right now, this new venture for Hucklebury looks like a win from my standpoint. You can pre-order on their Kickstarter.

(Source: mypantalones)

October 7, 2013

Product Review: Breyburn Striped Flannel

I recently received a shirt from a new menswear company called Breyburn, an online retailer selling modestly priced ready-to-wear shirts in high quality fabrics. I got the chance to to chat a bit with the Breyburn guys to learn a bit more about their company and the variety of poplin, flannel, linen, twill, and oxford button down and spread collar shirts that they produce. When offered a shirt to review, I decided to snag a blue and white striped flannel.

The first thing that I noticed about the shirt, upon unwrapping, was the cloth. Really, it’s hard not to notice the cloth instantly. The flannel that Breyburn uses is incredibly lightweight, and from afar appears as though it is more of a poplin. The flannel is incredibly soft and still allows for a slight breeze to push through the shirt. This is the ideal fall material, insanely comfortable and refined. 

On Breyburn’s site, the shirts are described as slim fit, and if you’ve bought shirts online before, you know that slim fit can mean a lot of different things. Sometimes slim fit means too tight, sometimes it means not slim at all. I will say, however, that Breyburn’s shirts are definitely slim fit. Not tight by any means, but the lines are very modern, leaving extra fabric tough to find. The cut of the body is very nice, and fit me perfectly in the shoulders. I will offer a warning to guys with long arms or torsos; the sleeves and shirt will be a bit short on you. If you’re an average sized guy, in terms of height, who likes a slim fit, this cut will flatter you very nicely. 

The details of the shirt are also impressive. The buttons are a very nice mother of pearl, which is always nice to see in a shirt, and the button down collar on a flannel was a refreshing pairing that you don’t see that often.

Breyburn shirts are produced in Portugal, with fabrics from mills like Albini and Tessitura Monti. The construction appears to be on point. After a few wears and a wash, nothing was visibly altered. Basically, this is an extremely solid ready-to-wear shirting company with a relevantly styled product at. Shirts are $85 to $95 bucks across the board, and the shirts are worth every penny. If you want to snag a new shirt for the coming seasons, I would definitely recommend checking these guys out. 

(Source: mypantalones)

October 2, 2013

United Arrows for Unionmade indigo dyed cotton shirts.

These are pretty awesome. The collars aren’t prime, but that chest pocket is basically perfect. The mother of pearl buttons don’t hurt either. 

(Source: unionmadegoods.com)

September 6, 2013

A few weeks ago, the guys from Proper Cloth asked me to design two custom shirts, featuring their new soft collars. Of course I accepted the offer, and as a result, I added two insanely beautiful shirts to my wardrobe. Here are some images from the resulting editorial, which turned out brilliantly. 

The two shirts are as follows:

  • 100s Khaki Stripe Poplin with white contrast collar, mother of pearl buttons, french placket, green torso monogram, and soft Milano spread collar and cuffs
  • Thomas Mason Blue/White Oxford with mother of pearl buttons, green torso monogram, and soft Milano spread collar and cuffs

Huge shouts out to Chris and the rest of the Proper Cloth team for directing this insane editorial.  

Check out the rest to see some styling from Jake and Fenimore.

August 21, 2013
I got to hang with Proper Cloth yesterday and style/model a couple shirts that I had made with their new soft collars, which were absolutely insane. Look for some incredible imagery being released after the collars drop on Proper Cloth’s site next week. 
This shirt is a white/tan stripe with white contrast collar, by the way.

I got to hang with Proper Cloth yesterday and style/model a couple shirts that I had made with their new soft collars, which were absolutely insane. Look for some incredible imagery being released after the collars drop on Proper Cloth’s site next week.

This shirt is a white/tan stripe with white contrast collar, by the way.

August 8, 2013

This collar is absolutely insane. 

(Source: blog.naver.com)

July 22, 2013

Hugh & Crye Sample Sale

I’ve said it multiple times before, and I’ll say it again, Hugh & Crye shirts fit me better than any other off-the-rack button ups that I have ever tried on. It also helps that the brand is run by a fantastic group of people. I cannon co-sign more heavily on these guys. 

Hugh & Crye is currently running a sample sale, and their shirts, including some 140s fabrics, are on sale for about $45 each. I own two of the shirts above, and I wear one of them at least once a week. This is an insane chance to grab a bunch of quality staples that you guys should really hop all over. 

July 8, 2013

Finamore Napoli Cotton Long-Sleeve Polos

You can snag these, as well as the rest of the spring/summer collection, online thanks to Finamore’s recently launched web shop

(Source: mypantalones)

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